Here’s a look back at the 2024 year in food. Read on for a refresher on what took place in Portland and all across the state, a look forward at the new new opening that are in the pipeline for 2025, a list of the most popular news stories of the past year, and some observations on the changing business landscape.
This is the 15th year we’ve produced a Year in Review report. Once you get a refresh on 2024 you can travel back in time with a read of the reports from 2023, 2022, 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, and 2010.
Best New – Dozens of new establishments opened across Maine this year—many gems among them. While picking out a single Best New from among the rest may be an impossible task, here are a few contenders for you to consider.
- Magissa – Nancy Klosteridis and Emily Otero opened Magissa in May serving contemporary takes on Greek traditional dishes. Great food and service, delightful desserts and drinks and moderate prices have made it an instant hit.
- Cantina Calafia – A distinctive sense of style, unique and inventive dishes like a savory crab churro and the goat cheese flan are part of what makes it easy to recommend this West End restaurant. Cantina Calafia launched in March and is located at the corner of Pine and Brackett Streets.
- Ocotillo – Brought to life by the team from Terlingua, Ocotillo takes its culinary cues from the flavors of Mexico and Texas. Initially launched as a brunch-only business, they added happy hour and dinner to the line-up in November making it that much easier to find a time to visit. The New York Times recently called out their Mushroom Breakfast Taco in their list of The 26 Best Dishes We Ate Across the U.S. in 2024.
- First Fig – Joanna Spinks launched First Fig back in February. The combo cafe/winebar/wine shop provides Camden with a space that offers ease and comfort along with a selection of natural wines, snacks, espresso. We hear the weekend appearances by Taqueria Max are not to be missed.
- Finestkind– Part of the new wave of restaurants opening in Saco, Finest kind launched in September the brainchild of Victoria and Tom Barthelmes along with their business partners Chris and Paige Gould from Central Provisions and Tipo. The instantly popular daytime cafe serves a wide range of house-made baked goods, sandwiches, salads and other dishes like the delicious Maine Grains Bowl.
- Circumstance – This seasonal restaurant opened in May in the small town of Swanville near Belfast. Chef/owner Khristopher Hogg is serving an inventive menu based that admirably meets his mission to “reflects the pursuit of craft, creativity, and an appreciation of place.”
A Changing Landscape – 2024 will be remembered in part for the run of high profile restaurant closures that took place in early fall. Coals, Thistle & Grouse, Sister’s Gourmet Deli, Golden Lotus, Slab, Salvage, North Point, Ohno Cafe, Anania’s and Local 188 all closed in a matter of weeks from mid-September to Thanksgiving.
Restaurant closure took place elsewhere in the state and during the year (see details below) but the fall closure triggered a wider public discussion and it was then the media began asking why restaurants are closing and when panel discussions took place to discuss a “restaurant apocalypse“.
Some of the factors that restaurants were faced with in 2024 were:
- Competition – At last count there is about 1 restaurant/bar/etc in Portland for every 200 residents. While that provides for an amazing diversity of choice for customers, it also presents a highly competitive landscape for restaurant to operate in. Older restaurants are always at risk of losing their base of regulars as new businesses open and newer ones have a short window when they are the new place to establish themselves.
- Rising Costs – Inflation drove up the costs of a wide range of goods that go into producing the restaurant experiences we enjoy. Labor costs have risen in order to keep pace with the increased housing and other costs of employee’s lives. That’s all challenged restaurant profitability and the ability to save money to make it through the slower winter season.
- Affordability – Those rising costs led to potential customers having less disposable income to spend on eating out just at a time when menu prices were rising.
- Timing – In any past year, there’s been a heightened number of closures in the fall after the summer tourists season ends and before the leaner winter months. 2024 saw a 9% decrease in the number of tourists relative to 2023 leaving some restaurants with less cash on hand.
- Unique Factors – Each of the businesses that closed in the past year are unique (it’s part of what we loved about them) and had factors special to their particular situations that were part of the decision to close.
While there have been a heightened number of closures in 2024 (and in 2023), more food and dining establishments opened last year than closed. It was a ~2:1 ratio for the year in Portland with a high point in May when twelve new bars, restaurants, cafe shops and cafes opened to the public.
While it’s unknown yet if the challenges outlined above will continue to drive closures in 2025, one thing is certain of is that despite the closures Portland and the state overall continues to have a vibrant restaurant scene. As you’ll see in this next few sections of this report, new entrepreneurs have exciting concepts in the works and new business have been opening all across Maine during the past year.
2025 Openings –There’s a lot in the works to look forward to in 2025. Here are a few highlights to whet your appetite for the coming year:
Ramona’s owner Josh Sobel is launching Benny’s on Congress Street.- Bowman Brown will be opening a new edition of his spectacular restaurant Elda in Bayside.
- A group of friends and industry professionals—Bryce Summers, Garrett Lenderman, Ryan Nielsen, Arvid Brown and Nick Coffin—have teamed up to open an all-day bar called Cuties in the Old Port.
A salad-centric cafe called Luncheonette is opening in the former Union Bagel building on Cumberland Ave.- Sam Minervino and a set of business partners are renovating the former Parker’s building in North Deering where they will open the North Deering Tavern.
- Isaac MacDougal along with Jake Bosma, Brecken Macdougal and Zach Myers plans to open the Supper Club Cocktail Lounge on Congress Street.
- Sichuan Kitchen owner Qi Shen will be launching Tuan Yuan Hotpot at 29 Forest Ave in the Portland Stage building.
- Tony and Chelsea Bickford have taken over the Scarlet Begonia’s space in Brunswick where they plan to launch Pomelia.
- The owners of the Solo Pane e Pasticceria are expanding their bakery into the space adjacent to their location on Centre Street in Bath.
- Chef/owner Jordan Benissan is relocating his Rockland restaurant Me Lon Togo to Freeport.
- Elevenes, the hobbit-themed all-day cafe and bakery under construction in Brunswick, will be opening on January 11th.
- Colleen Kelley plans to open a new edition of Silly’s in Standish.
- A new bakery called Yuri’s Desserts is opening on Spring Street January 2nd. They’ll be serving a variety of cakes, macarons, cookies, shaved ice, croissants and donuts.
- Augusta-based Cushnoc Brewing has leased space in Waterville where they have been building out the Cushnoc Cantina.
- Taco Trio is renovating and moving back into their original location in South Portland.
- A new wine bar and wine shop called Pulling Corks is under construction in Belfast.
There are many other exciting new projects in the works that haven’t gone public yet. Check back throughout the new year as we share the details.
Notable News IN PORTLAND
January – Flooding impacted restaurants up and down the coast, Emily Phillips and Courtney Packer took over ownership of Miyake and Pai Men Miyake (pictured here with Miyake chef Bounahra Kim), a series of restaurant break-ins took place, Eight Maine food producers were finalists in the 2024 Good Food Awards, Wine Enthusiast published a Wine Lover’s Guide to Maine, Blake Orchard announced plans to expand to Brunswick and Scarborough, 10 Maine restaurants and chefs were named 2024 Beard Awards semifinalists. Double Great Coffee became the first opening of the year and they were followed in January by Don’s Lunch in Westbrook, Tres Leches in South Portland and Edelweiss in Biddeford. Solo Cucina Market in South Portland, Maples in New Gloucester, and Jackrabbit Cafe in Biddeford closed.
February – The staff at Smalls formed a union, Mr. Tuna took over the former Solo Cucina space to use as a commissary kitchen, the Maine Sunday Telegram wrote about brothers Bounahra and Bounahcree Kim who are the chefs at Miyake and Oun Lido’s, a team from the SMCC culinary school took 1st place in the Maine Restaurant Week breakfast competition. Elda announced plans to move to Portland. Paella Seafood, Thai Tree, Brea Lu Cafe in Westbrook, Jerome’s, Cherished Pub, and Argenta Brewing all opened in February. Stars & Stripes closed their Portland tasting room.
March – Onggi was featured in a new Bon Appetit article about the creativity of American bakeries, and Goronson Farm kicked off a project to farm etrog, Rebel Munchies and Libations, gluten-free bakery Bam Bam in Falmouth, Sacred Profane on Thompson’s Point, Cantina Calafia, Bom Dia, Freedom’s Edge, Don’s Lunch in Westbrook, and The Good Table in Cape Elizabeth, opened. Helm closed.
April – Food & Wine recognized Portland in their lists of the Top 10 Cites for Food and Drink and Top 10 Cites for Bakeries as part of their 2024 Global Tastemakers Awards, four Maine chefs and restaurants were selected as 2024 Awards nominees, Allagash released a new beer produced with a perennial grain called Kernza in collaboration with Patagonia Provisions, Papi was named a Top Ten honoree in the of Best New Cocktail Bars – East category in this year’s Spirited Awards, Vertical Harvest received $59.5M in funding to support the construction of their hydroponic farm in Westbrook, Coffee by Design signed an agreement with a union of their baristas, three Maine business were 2024 Good Food Awards winners, and the 6th annual Maine Seaweed Week took place. Botanically Curious, Ocotillo, Vintage Dogs, and Smoked opened. Pizza Joint, Foulmouthed Brewing, and Thai Esaan closed.
May – Magnus on Water was been recognized by The Pinnacle Guide for the excellence of their bar program, Eric Michaud sold Liquid Riot to Michael Fraser who renamed the brewpub/distillery to Camp Penant, the Southern Smoke Foundation partnered with the University of Maine to pilot a mental health program for food and beverage workers in Maine, Eighty Ate Hospitality announced they would be moving Bao Bao to Brunswick, Rob Evans and Nancy Pugh sold Duckfat and Duckfat Frites Shack and retired from the restaurant industry, the Maine Food Map was launched, the 2024 edition of the Portland pocket guide was released, The Infatuation released an updated version of their eating guide to Portland. Model T Coffee, Low Key, The Garden at Bissell Brothers, Oun Lido’s, Luna Bangladeshi Cuisine, Off Track Pizza, the new Mr Tuna on Middle Street, Five of Clubs/Twin Flower, Magissa, Hot Liquor Tank, and Angoor Wine Bar opened. Falafel Time and Broken Arrow closed.
June – Atsuko Fujimoto won the Outstanding Pastry Chef/Baker award and Zu Bakery won the Outstanding Bakery award at the 2024 James Beard Awards, Portland Wine Week took place, Eat Drink Lucky released their Must Eat List, The Wall Street Journal published an interview with CEO Briana Warner from Atlantic Sea Farms, the 2024 Midcoast pocket guide was released, the New York Times published a 36 Hours in guide to Portland; Salvage BBQ reopened and Onggi launched their new cafe. Pot + Pan Kitchen, Another Round, Bar Publica, Stonewall Kitchen, the new Blue Lobster, Low Stakes Lodge, Bubble Bliss, Toku Truck, Vendredi’s, Gunnar’s Dogs, and Lil Chippy opened.
July – Rabelais Books opened their culinary bookstore on Washington Ave and the Leisure Time Cocktail Company launched on Thompson’s Point. The Portland Distilling Company launched their first spirit Goldie’s Gin. Roux Kehoe shut down operation of The Pink Waffle food truck, the Bier Cellar closed their Gorham location, The Garrison closed, and Maxwell’s closed down their strawberry farm.- August – Dana Cowin along with Allagash brewer Jason Perkins and Maine Grain Alliance executive director Tristan Noyes held a panel discussion to “discuss the ways that locally sourced food / food systems can bring joy, connection and positive transformation.” Jack O’Brien from Blyth & Burrows and Olivia Watts a bartender at Luna participated in the semifinalists in the Barr Hill Royal Jellies cocktail competition. Sapporo shared plans to move to Falmouth. Lucky Cheetah, The Messy Cookie, and the new Taj opened, and Tiqa reopened. The India Street Coffee by Design closed as did the When Pigs Fly bakeshop in Bayside.
September – The Infatuation included Banh Appetit in their list of the 13 Best Banh Mi Across America, Rabelais decided to extend their 3-month pop-up on Washington Ave to the end of 2025, Finestkind and Oddfellahs opened. Yardie Ting moved into an larger space on the first floor of the Public Market House. Graeme Miller closed down BenReuben’s Knishery with plans to start working on launching a full Jewish delicatessen and market. Sisters Gourmet Deli closed their location in Monument Square but are keeping their shop in Bath open. Golden Lotus, Thistle & Grouse, and Coals also closed in September.
October – Sean Turley’s new book Practical Pomology went on pre-sale, three Maine business won Golden Fork awards from the Maine Center for Entrepreneurs and Apres held their annual Apple Tasting. The Maine Flavor ice cream shop, Next Tea, and Lay Day Roasters opened. Local 188, Thoroughfare and Dandy’s Handy Store in Yarmouth, the Maine Bagel in Scarborough, Slab, North Point, Salvage BBQ, and Free Street closed.
November – Ocotillo began serving dinner. Lone Pine and Lord Hobo Brewing announced a merger. Big Tree Hospitality took over the former Local 188 to use as an event space and a kitchen for their catering operations. The owners of Maps bought Mash Tun. Sissle & Daughters in Woodfords Corner, Second Rodeo Coffee in South Portland, Roasty’s, the new Noble Pizzeria and Barbecue, the West End Two Fat Cats cafe, and the Scarborough Stack’s opened. Anania’s owners retired and closed the market. OhNo Cafe, Elsmere BBQ and Nosh Taco closed.
December – Oun Lido’s was included in Esquire magazine’s list of the Best New Restaurants of 2024, Oxbow Brewing acquired Rising Tide, Joseph Robbins cooked at the 2024 White House Tribal Nations Summit, Ocotillo and Mr. Tuna got some love from the NY Times and Food & Wine, and Room for Improvement’s espresso martini was highlighted in the Esquire list of the Best Martinis in America. Chef Matt Ginn announced he’d left Prentice Hospitality after a decade-long run with the company. The Send Brewing opened in South Portland, and Pine Tree Baking closed in Westbrook.
MAINE FOOD & DINING NEWS
The broader Maine food and dining scene continues to expand. There have been new business launches in nearly every county from Salted Butter Farm Restaurant which opened this summer in Sherman to Baker Bru in North Berwick and from Clifford’s Donut Stop kiosk in Phillips to Aekier Brewing’s tasting room in Wiscasset. The Midcoast in general and Brunswick specifically has seen a high level of change and development.
The statewide developments over the last few years haven’t gone unnoticed. Three of the Beard award semifinalists in 2024 were from outside Portland, Food & Wine magazine included Aragosta on Deer Isle on their list of the Best Restaurants in the US, The Alna Store was on the New York Times list of their “50 favorite places in America right now“, Down East magazine wrote about a “restaurant renaissance” taking place in Bethel and the Press Herald provided a survey of the food industry in Saco.
Not all the Maine news was sunshine and rose. While the Portland area experienced the highest density of closures, businesses elsewhere in Maine also closed their doors like Yonder in Wiscasset, Goods in Camden, Side by Each in Auburn and Big G’s in Winslow to name a few. Additionally, Biddeford encountered some headwinds this past year with a number of closures including Lorne Wine, Dizzy Bird, Vickie’s Veggie Table and Pint & Pawn.
Here are some additional highlights:
- Waterford – Chef Brandon Montes joined the team at Tallulah’s which upped the game of the seasonal farm-to-table restaurant.
- Brunswick – A number of space swaps are taking place in Brunswick. The Great Impasta is moving into a space vacated by Portland-based Maiz, the former Scarlet Begonia’s is being backfilled by a new Sicilian restaurant called Pomelia, Nomad closed and the owners of Dutchman’s are planning to open an Italian restaurant called Paolo’s in its place, Joshua’s Tavern closed and the owners of Linden + Front are in the process of building out Ram & Bull in that spot, and the Stadlers moved Bao Bao from Portland into the building occupied by their restaurant Tao Yuan. On top of that Brunswick saw the opening of Reverie Coffee, a second Blake Orchard, Lil Jam Cookies, and a new edition of Walter’s Cafe, and the sad loss of Caballera’s. The hobbit-themed cafe and cocktail bar Elevenses is scheduled to open on January 11th.
- Bath – Linden + Front opened as did a German bakery and restaurant called The Pelzer. Solo Pane e Pasticceria is expanding their kitchen and seating area into an adjacent storefront.
- Windham – Portland area restaurant veterans Hannah Buoye and Billy Hager launched Waxwing Bakery. Waxwing serves croissants, chocolate cream pie, savory items like sausage rolls and quiche, muffins, cookies, slices of cake, Tandem Coffee with a full range of espresso-based drinks as well as China Jade and English Breakfast from Mem Tea. Hager and Bouye plan to add a lunch menu early next year that will offer salads and sandwiches.
- Bridgton – A Japanese-inspired restaurant called Bar Kosho opened in November.
- Machias – Brewer-based Mason’s Brewing Company’s opened a second location, and Ross Florance launched his weekly 8-course chefs tasting menu restaurant, Flora.
- Bangor – Two new cocktail bars The Key Room and Barliman’s opened in Bangor this year.
- Skowhegan – After 72 years in business Island Dairy Treat went out of business.
- Waterville/Winslow – Borderland Coffee opened in the Schupf Arts Center and Meza took overthe former home of the Lebanese bakery in Waterville, and Big G’s in Winslow closed after ~38 years in business.
- Piscataquis County – Whittle Bird Coffee Co opened a coffee shop and cafe in Guilford, Pleasant and Center launched a new outdoor cafe in Monson, and Bissell Brothers closed their brewpub in Milo.
- Lewiston – AfroTaste and Boba closed in Lewiston, and Crouse House Coffee Roaster launched January. El Pocho’s Mexican Grill has moved into the former Boba space on Lisbon Street.
- Swanville – Chef Khristoher Hogg opened his new restaurant Circumstance.
- Camden/Rockland – The Place bakery was featured in a New York Times article about the 22 of the Best Bakeries Across the U.S. Right Now. Closure of Goods in Camden made way for Alna Store alumni Hannah Adams and chef Devin Dearden to open Winona’s. Spice Pizzeria, a second location of The Spot and 13 Oak opened in Rockland. First Fig and Buttermilk Kitchen opened for business in Camden. Me Lon Togo chef/owner Jordan Benissan has shared his plans to move his Rockland restaurant to Freeport in 2025.
- Elsewhere in the Midcoast – Charm Thai and Aekier Brewing opened and Yonder closed in Wiscasset. Barco Provisions and Rue 77 opened and a fire destroyed Schooner Landing in Damariscotta. Ida’s in Waldoboro continued to expand their range of events and food pop-ups. Four local residents took over management of S. Fernald’s Country Store in Newcastle. Honey’s opened in Thomaston, Dos Gatos Gastro Pub opened in Belfast and Amandine in Searsport.
- Biddeford/Saco – Apero, Catface Cafe and Edelweiss opened in Biddeford. Finestkind, gluten-free bakery/cafe Sweets & Co., and Swell Nitro Coffee launched in Saco. Owner Mark Johnston retired and closed his longtime Saco business Vic & Whit’s at the end of December and Vickie’s Veggie Table, Pint & Pawn, Lorne Wine, and Dizzy Bird all closed in Biddeford. Additionally, Carolina and Luis Tovar became the new owners of Pacifico.
- Elsewhere in York County – Lee Franks opened a second location of their South Berwick burger shack. Mussette owner Jonathan Cartwright launched Caring Community Cuisine, a new initiative to “focusing on family nutrition and human interaction to help those battling cancer.” Oarweed Restaurant in Ogunquit was extensively damaged in a fire, Via Sophia by the Sea closed in Kennebunk. In Limerick, Blaze Brewing Company took over operation of Doles Orchard and Gneiss Brewing went out of business. In Springvale, Downhill Bagels launched in March and closed in December while they seek a new location and Meeting Ground Coffee opened. Finally, Festina Lente launched a second restaurant called Secundo in South Berwick and Alex d’Emarese opened his new bakery/cafe in Baker Bru in North Berwick.
Top ARTICLE
The most popular articles we published in the past year were:
- When Pigs Fly – the closing of the bread shop in Bayside. When Pigs Fly had opened the shop in October 2023. (August 31st)
- Bao Bao Moving– news that the Stadlers would be moving Bao Bao to Brunswick. (May 13th)
- Anania’s – news that owners Ed and Barbara Anania were retiring and selling their Congress Street store. (October 23rd)
- Anjon’s – news that the longtime Scarborough restaurant would be reopening. (May 28th)
- Cherished Possession – word that a new restaurant was under development in Allen’s Corner. (May 16th)
- The Send Brewing – first word that Cole Corbin would be opening a new brewery in the building formerly occupied by Foulmouthed Brewing in Knightville. (June 19th)
- Zu Bakery Beard Award – a report from Chicago that Zu Bakery was the recipient of a James Beard Award in the Outstanding Bakery category. (June 10th)
- Fujimoto Beard Award– a report from Chicago that was the recipient of a James Beard Award in the Outstanding Baker category. (June 10th)
- Finestkind – first word that a team from Central Provisions/Tipo leader were working on a new restaurant in Saco. (May 14th)
- Magissa Opening Soon – a report on the soon-to-open new Greek restaurant in East Bayside. (May 1st)
- Cantina Calafia Opening – photos and menu from the West End restaurant that opened on March 13th. (March 10th)
- Lucky Cheetah Opening – photos from the new Old Port restaurant opening in the space formerly occupied by the Old Port Tavern. (July 23rd)
The Maine Food Map, Thanksgiving List, Under Construction List, Beard Awards page and guides to Maine cider and Maine apples also received a lot of visitors last year.
Passings
The past year witnessed the passing of several members of the Maine food community.
For some additional perspectives on the past year see the Maine Sunday Telegram Best of 2024 round-up.
