Category: Reviews

The Front Room received 3 stars from a review in today’s Maine Sunday Telegram.

The Front Room, one of three Portland “Rooms” that chef Lee Harding Smith opened in Portland (The Grill Room and The Corner Room being the others), has garnered avid followers and good press. On a Tuesday night, plenty of people were lining up for supper.

My experience did not measure up to the hoopla.

I’d like to see some of the centerpieces we had — that juicy chicken, tender beef and silky smooth potatoes, for instance — get to show off their innate flavors. Let herbs, burgundy, garlic and such outshine the salt in the well-conceived items. A little hovering and tasting was in order.

Eat Here. Go There. has published reviews of The Grill Room,

Despite the pizza mishap, there is no way I won’t be eating here again, there are too many other wonderful menu items to keep me from coming back, but I am going to go with this brief closing sentiment. Go for the grilled items, blow off anything else (or risk extreme dissatisfaction). In short—burger, amazing. Pizza, lousy.

and El Rayo.

All in all, it was a good start to a fun night. While not my favorite place to get burritos, tacos or enchiladas in Portland I don’t think that it’s terrible. I can’t put my finger on exactly what is lacking there for me, but if a friend wanted to go have a causal dinner there again, I would certainly go. I would not, however, get the enchiladas ever again. The quality of the pork was good, so it gives me hope if I decide to go back sometime and try a pork dish another time around. I just don’t think I’ll be knocking down their door anytime soon though. I apologize profusely to Bitzy and other El Rayo frequenters, but it’s just not my jar of salsa kids.

From Away has published a review of Walter’s.

We’d read good things about the Crispy Asian Raviolis, but I used birthday leverage to order more calamari: “Cracklin Calamari,” ($10) spice dusted fried calamari, with lemon caper cherry pepper aioli, basil leaf, and candied jalapeños. It just seemed like the thing to do. The squid was cooked exquisitely, not too greasy or chewy or heavy with breading. And the candied jalapeños were piquant adult candy flecked throughout the plate. Unfortunately, a saccharine vanilla sauce coated every morsel in an overbearing fashion.

The Golden Dish has published a review of Grace.

The menu is intriguing American bistro fare. The concept is hardly ground-breaking but a newly inspired kitchen staff is striking the right culinary chord. Take, for example, a warm escarole salad with crispy sweet breads or local apples with smoked ricotta among some of the starter options. As for main courses, they’re equally compelling, from hanger steak in a mustard beer sauce to seared cod coddled by a watercress emulsion to comfort fare like a loin pork chop with grits and redeye gravy.

Bintliff’s received 4 stars from the review in today’s Maine Sunday Telegram.

Bintliff’s American Cafe has been serving brunch to Portland for 18 years, and the skill shows. They know what works, and they balance familiar standards with enough creativity to keep the energy fresh. Like your well-worn jeans accented with a brand-new scarf, the Bintliff’s experience makes you feel simultaneously comfortable, modern and satisfied.

Vin et Grub has published a review of Schulte & Herr.

The waffle, supposedly my area of expertise, annihilated Bintliff’s Belgian waffle that I ordered the day before.  The batter crisped up perfectly, and was not too sweet.  Upon first bite you realize that this waffle, unlike the majority served out there, is miraculously airy, crunchy, and borderline elysian.  Topped with spiced plums, there wasn’t even an ounce of me that wanted a side of maple syrup (which is something that I always douse my waffles in).  I am being one hundred percent honest when I say that this waffle is possibly the greatest waffle you can find on the East Coast.

The list of photo mini Snap Reviews continues to expand on Flickr. Recent additions include Novare Res and last weekend’s Gothic Halloween Dinner at Hugo’s.

The Portland Phoenix has published a review of Schulte & Herr.

S&H gets this balance just right with dish after dish. For example, not only are the potato pancakes made from a pillowy whip, and seared crispy without too much crunch or grease. They are also served with a house-cured salmon that keeps things bright by enhancing the flesh’s natural sweetness with subtle notes of orangey citrus. It is all served with a thin, light sour cream and horseradish sauce, which along with some capers, radish, and cornichon, enhance both fish and potato, and overwhelm neither.

Portland Magazine has published a review of Fez.

Fez offers a striking array of appetizers, beginning with the sautéed shrimp dish Kimroun Sharmoula ($6.95). The Moroccan touch sparkles here, with a light garlic-tomato sauce enhancing the sweet shrimp flavors, keeping each morsel moist and delectable.

The November issue also includes a survey of Portland’s ethnic markets. The article isn’t available online but you should be able to a find a paper copy of Portland Magazine at your local newsstand.