Category: Reviews

Portland Magazine has reviewed Benkay, and

Benkay’s 21-year run is proof that gloriously fresh seafood and excellent service will never go out of style.

The Golden Dish has reviewed Sichuan Kitchen.

We also had Zhong dumplings, which are one of the best dishes coming out of this kitchen. Served in a rich Sichuan-style blend of soy, sugar and garlic, you’re meant to stir the dumplings in the sauce at the bottom of the bowl to get the full flavor effect: spicy and flowery.

The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Taverne Khione in Brunswick, and

Nothing says “yiayia” quite like lamb chops ($28), which Provencher rubs with oregano, salt and pepper before char-grilling. He serves them medium-rare with extraordinarily citrusy, lemon-infused roasted potatoes, a lovely counterbalance to the low-pitched gaminess of the meat. Or whole grilled dorade, its cavity stuffed with fennel tops and slices of lemon, plated up next to a ruddy tumble of paprika-coated roasted potatoes ($28).

Peter Peter Portland Eater has reviewed JP’s Bistro.

As I delved further into my plate, I was pleased with the combination of flavors. The mushrooms and tomatoes were dispersed in the perfect proportions, not overpowering the scallops and the crab was so good as a second seafood flavor. It was an item that had all the right ingredients to combine into an well put together dish. The potatoes and vegetables were sound sides.

The Guardian has published a survey of Portland for their Best Towns and Small Cities in the US series.

Restaurants and bars featured in the article: Arcadia, Bayside Bowl, Blue, Bolster Snow, Eventide, Holy Donut, Local Sprouts, Oxbow, The Bearded Lady.

The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Tuscan Table,

And while executive chef Lee Skawinski’s menu does not yet match the sophistication and polish of the space, it is moving in the right direction. Nearly four months in, you’ll find plenty of adequate options as well as a few truly great dishes, such as a remarkably light pork Milanese; a coffee-infused, three-layer chocolate cake; and a savory appetizer of roasted mushrooms on creamy soft polenta. When Tuscan Table offers a glimpse of its potential, as it does through its toasted-rye spaetzle with pickled onions, dill, chervil and roasted fennel cream – an accompaniment to its wood-grilled salmon fillet – it’s easy to imagine that this boxy restaurant next to the Maine Mall could one day become one of the area’s best.

the Portland Phoenix and Peter Peter Portland Eater have reviewed Black Cow, and

Having served its first burger just a few weeks ago on March 19, Black Cow is clearly still in its tinkering phase. The good news is that after three visits, improvements seem to be exponential rather than incremental. Fries that were initially soggy and pale are now crisp, golden-hued and impossible to stop devouring. Burgers — juicy, yet bordering on being overcooked — are framed by pleasantly chewy buns and an umami-laden caramelized tomato mayo. The chicken sandwich feels painstakingly recreated in its square-shaped patty embodiment, highlighted by an airy deep-fried texture that’s off the charts.

the Press Herald has reviewed The Snug.

Along with Michelle’s absence, the shift in vibe may also be a result of who is hanging out at The Snug these days. A look around the room yields glimpses of familiar faces from the era of Mama’s Crowbar, which was up the street and is now the Munjoy Hill Tavern with an entirely different crowd and scene. In many ways, the vibe at The Snug today feels not too dissimilar from what “Mama” and her staff curated at the Crowbar: quiet, respectful, welcoming. It’s an interesting function of what can happen when a neighboring establishment with such identity serves its final drink.

The Golden Dish has reviewed Black Cow,

All said and done, the Black Cow and its menu are brilliantly located in the heartbeat of the Old Port vibe where you can have burgers, fries, soda, sandwiches and casual salads all washed down by a great menu of craft cocktails and bar drinks of all stripe.

the Press Herald has reviewed Otto Pizza,

Happy hour at Otto isn’t what it used to be, but the on-the-house slice means it’s still worth a look.

The Bollard has reviewed Green Elephant, and

We also had the local mushroom rice bowl ($15). Mushrooms are a fantastic way to bring a meaty flavor and texture to vegetarian dishes. This bowl had shiitakes, oyster mushrooms, and some oddly chewy, fried enoki mushrooms. Like the curry, it also had plenty of vegetables and a bed of brown jasmine rice. It was satisfying in a comfort-food sort of way, but hardly exciting. It tasted like an easy weeknight dinner at home, when you realize you have a bunch of mushrooms in the fridge that are on their way out, so you whip up an impromptu stir-fry.

Peter Peter Portland Eater has reviewed Easter brunch at Five Fifty-Five.

We finished our food and paid the $44 tab. The meal was fine, but either the wait lowered my enthusiasm or I’m just too used to their dinner which I really love, because it didn’t quite live up to my expectations. However, the prices were relatively standard for the city, so to be fair, I did get what I paid for. The biggest issue was definitely the delay in receiving our food. That needs some work, especially considering the modest crowd when I was there. Maybe I’ll stick to dinner when I go back.

The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Bite into Maine and Highroller Lobster, and

Call Sutton’s approach cautious if you must, but it results in a roll that has been widely celebrated as one of the best in the nation. Bite’s classic Maine-style roll ($17.95) is almost architectural in its attention to balance among its few ingredients. First sweet lobster meat – claw and knuckle only, as long as supply from local lobstermen allows – which has to be mixed with cooling mayonnaise in precisely the right quantity and piled generously into the yielding center of a butter-toasted bun. With a million ways to get it wrong, Sarah Sutton and her husband, co-owner Karl Sutton, get it exactly right, every time.

the Portland Phoenix has reviewed Evo,

Evo’s menu separates proteins as “Fish” and “Meat” respectively, and this is where the bulk of the fun is to be had. A shallow monkfish stew with mussels, chickpeas and green garlic is as rich and satisfying in taste as it is beautiful to look at. Seared tuna with ginger, cilantro and avocado toum (an eggless Lebanese garlic emulsion) remains wholly faithful to the rest of the menu while clearly taking inspiration from Asian cooking. A dish of buttery cod, lobster and cauliflower—framed by tahini and celery root—steals the show in its barrage of opulent textures and flavors.

The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Elda,

No mincing words: Elda is a fantastic addition to the southern Maine dining scene, and the Biddeford 50-seater might very well be the best new restaurant to open in the Portland metropolitan area in the past two years. Chef/owner Bowman Brown’s resume probably should have tipped all of us off to what was in store; as chef at Forage in Salt Lake City, he was widely celebrated for a cooking style that linked place to plates. At Elda, he’s up to many of the same tricks, but with a different palette of ingredients, most coastal, as well as a newfound interest in exploring ways to combine modern and traditional techniques into his small-plates menu. The results are stunning.

the Portland Phoenix has reviewed Blyth and Burrows,

Around 30 percent of the evening fare at Blyth & Burrows is comprised of Asian-focused dishes — mostly baos and dumplings—which carries over to the new brunch menu. Saigon tuna crudo is bright, texturally animated and subtle in flavor, carried by the presence of nuoc cham and crispy alliums.

the Press Herald has published a bar review of Blue Fin, and

Thanks in large part to a generous pour of bourbon, the resulting drink shows just enough sweetness, settling at the back of the tongue, while highlighting the boozy bite it requires for balance. With candied orange overtones and a beautiful appearance, the drink glistens in its glass and finishes with a velvety, almost creamy mouthfeel lasting well into the next sip. It is, in a word, divine.

Peter Peter Portland Eater has reviewed Miss Portland Diner.

They don’t do fancy – typical diner stuff for breakfast, lunch, and dinner (3 days), but it’s well prepared, flavorful, and they offer a few mildly inventive options. And they are housed in a historical diner car which gives them a really neat look and feel. Give Miss P. a shot and I think you’ll find your hunger happily satiated.

The Blueberry Files has published a first look report of Black Cow.

Everyone who mourned the closing of Sonny’s, Jay Villani’s Latin-themed restaurant on lower Exchange Street can breathe easy—Black Cow is now open, and the bar remains functionally the same. The food, however, is completely different with a focus on hamburgers, ice cream, and sodas. Those who enjoyed cozying up to Sonny’s large bar and ordering a creative cocktail will be pleased to see Black Cow has a list that rivals Sonny’s in its inventiveness.