NYC wine importer T. Edward was recently in Portland. He’s posted impressions of his meals at Hugo’s, Central Provisions and Vinland.
With an urban appetite and a farmer’s flair, Portland’s dining scene has come of age and is ready for courting. From Hugo’s on Middle Street that first opened in 1999, to Central Provisions and Vinland, both opened just this year, Portland has become a destination for everything local on the plate from umami to briny, to supple creams and tart berries.
The Golden Dish has reviewed Blue Spoon.
A main course of pan-fried flounder was perfectly cooked–flakey, fresh and well-seasoned. What drew me to the dish, however, was the accompanying side of caramelized green beans. These, however, were merely sautéed and remained al dente but not glazed whatsoever. The fish had a further garnish of crispy fingerlings and olive oil poached sun gold tomatoes with basil—a pleasing Mediterranean touch, though overall too much oil on the dish.
The Portland Phoenix has reviewed Lolita.
The medium dishes are the most intriguing on the page, and they deliver on it. In one dish, black trumpets brought out the earthy side of mackerel filet. Lentils, served with just pickled beets, could not have been more perfectly tender or expertly seasoned. Torchino pasta enlivens a simple creamy tomato sauce with the spice and texture of crumbled nduja sausage and the pop of fresh peas.
Portland Magazine has reviewed Slab.
Craving more of that insanely delicious bread–which is nothing like pizza dough–we’re captivated by the Sausage Raab Shoe Bianca ($9) served with a side of “slab gravy.” Crumbled, tender sausage meat is mixed with lots of quality cheeses and tasty, bright green broccoli raab, all tucked into that dreamy pillow of luna lusciousness.
The Portland Phoenix has reviewed El Corazon/Taco Trio/Hella Good.
With relief I instead got the Corazon burrito (on Spring St. near downtown) for half the price. It was great—the tortilla grilled but still spongy, the carne ground up, juicy and infused with spices. The tacos ($2.50) are also quite good. The pork is almost bellyish in its fatty tenderness. The fish has a great tart sauce and just-bitter cabbage crunch. The pulled chicken was tender and herbaceous. The truck itself is a red beauty.
The Golden Dish has reviewed the new Tandem Bakery.
The custard of the chess pie was flawless, thick and rich with the tang of citrus and buttermilk. The bottom crust wasn’t soggy, either, though the overall shell was a bit unusual. It’s an all butter crust, but I’d like to know what Holt is doing to it? It’s not flakey but crisp instead.
The blueberry crumble-topped pie was another perfect piece of pie. The filling wasn’t overly sweet but just right and I loved the crunchy, candylike topping.
The Press Herald has posted a bar review of Ruski’s,
And this ease-of-attitude – there’s absolutely no pretention or bar brawl disorder – seems to be a vibe everyone catches when they step through the door at Ruski’s. There’s a sense of respect whether you’ve been coming here for decades or just stumbled upon the corner bar for the first time.
While not a place to find a craft cocktail, Ruski’s is a fully stocked bar with 12 taps and a number of nightly cheap beer specials that are available until 1 a.m.
and a review of Buck’s Naked BBQ.
The brisket was served on a soft brioche bun, and I added a healthy dose of the house barbecue sauce. I don’t need a lot of heat with my meat, but I enjoy a mild kick. The meat was tender and came apart easily in sandwich-sized bites. A knife and fork were not necessary.
Tufts Now has reviewed Central Provisions,
Duck liver crostini have been finding their way onto a number of menus. This version, complemented with kumquats, fried shallot and fresh oregano, set the bar for elevated expectations. Our follow-up of caramelized Miticana sheep cheese from Spain with peaches and 15-year aged balsamic nearly prompted an immediate encore.
and Drink-up and Get Happy has reviewed Boone’s.
Overall it was a great evening enjoying some of the best that Portland has to offer. While the specials at Boone’s sister restaurants may be a little better, you can’t beat Boone’s for ample patio space, good drinks, and great views!
The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Duckfat.
I find the fried onions, pork belly and ham (which Ben recently delivered here), delectable eaten straight up with my fingers, while Ben cuts the Sorella’s Bakehouse brioche rolls in half to fill with various combos of ham and fried onions or duck terrine and pickles. His works of art look like the perfect highbrow sandwich, though still providing lowbrow delight.
Peter Peter Portland Eater has reviewed J’s Oyster Bar.
J’s has the distinction of being one of the finest dives in Portland – a place where moderately low class and culinary arts class intersect to make a burping, bubbling cauldron of absolute awesome that is as entertaining as it is delicious. Everything about the restaurant says “party like is 1983 and feel free to drink like it’s the prohibition.”