Category: Reviews

Review of In a Silent Way

| Posted in Reviews, Maine

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a four star review of In a Silent Way in Wiscasset.

Co-owners Chandler Sowden and Zack Goodwin have put together a masterful selection of wines served in some of the best glassware you’ll ever encounter, as well as a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it-length menu of exquisitely prepared, vegetable-focused small plates. Sip a glass of tart, pale Guy Breton Régnié and order food with abandon. Everything I ate at In a Small Way was a delight, most especially a watermelon salad with peppers, tomato, feta and cilantro, and an exquisitely roasted eggplant in a nearly raw passata of Sungold tomatoes.

There have been a number of changes in the Wiscasset restaurant scene over the last year or so:

  • In late 2022 owners of the now closed Ruby’s West End in Portland opened Back River Bistro at the former location of Little Village Bistro.
  • Longtime mainstay Sarah’s closed earlier this year with the retirement of its namesake owner Sarah Heald. In its place Jodie Roquemore is opening a new rendition of her restaurant Jodie’s Cafe and Bakery.
  • A new raw bar named Jolie Rogers opened earlier this summer. They’re located on the water-facing side of the same building as In a Silent Way.
  • Treats and Water Street Kitchen + Bar remain established favorites in Wiscasset as are Sprague’s and Red’s.
  • Just a short drive away is The Alna Store, a restaurant and market in the small town of Alna.

Bon Appetit Best Dishes

| Posted in Reviews

Bon Appetit recently came out with their list of the best new restaurants of the past year. While no Maine restaurants were highlighted this year, dishes from two new restaurants were featured.

The Milk Bread with Brown Butter and Smoked Pecans at Twelve was called out in BA’s article on “The Absolute Best Dishes We Ate at New Restaurants This Year“.

And, the Lemon Meringue Kakigori at Bar Futo was selected for their list of “The Most Delightful Desserts We Ate at New Restaurants This Year“.

Wine Enthusiast: Best Wine Shops

| Posted in Reviews

Wine Enthusiast has included Vessel & Vine (instagram) and Maine & Loire (instagram) on their list of The Best Wine Shops of 2023.

Our 2023 shops are information hubs and community centers. They open windows into local wine regions, introducing consumers to the ferments happening in their own backyards. These shops help tell America’s wine story as it is today—one that celebrates new varieties, new approaches to winemaking and a diverse maker space.

Today’s shops don’t only sell wine, either. They’re expanding notions of where wine fits into our lives, with many shops offering cider, sake, bread, cheese, coffee and books. They’re also crafting thriving communities, paving the way for a new kind of wine culture.

The article was written by Portland area wine professional and journalist Margot Mazur (instagram).

Review of Dara Bistro

| Posted in Reviews

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a four star review of Dara Bistro in Cumberland.

…Dara Bistro is a cozy, under-the-radar treasure in Cumberland. Chef/owner Bryan Dame has been preparing buzzworthy breakfasts, brunches and lunches in the space since 2017, but it wasn’t until last summer that he began serving a dinner menu inspired by New England, European bistro cooking and Southern food. The combo works delightfully…Absolutely worth a drive.

Rising Star Costal New England Awards

| Posted in Reviews, People

StarChefs has released their list of Rising Stars in the Costal New England region.

In New England, cold, snowed-in nights turn into long, sunny beach days. In our over 100 editorial visits across Rhode Island, Maine, and the Massachusetts Islands, we found a group of industry professionals defying the odds of seasonality, embracing the unique challenges of an economy that burns hotter than the summer sun, and understanding how to keep themselves and their teams stimulated and engaged in the winter months. There is a serious focus on agriculture, aquaculture, as well as innovations in showcasing what is fished and farmed locally. From the Narragansett to the Casco, StarChefs is proud to welcome in our newest class of Rising Stars. 

A number of Portland area chefs, restaurateurs and bartenders are on the list. Congratulations to all the honorees:

Read more about the Rising Star Awards Program on the starchefs.com website.

Lobster Rolls & Spirits

| Posted in Reviews, Distilling & Cocktails

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes an article comparing the cross-road Wiscasset lobster roll options of Red’s and Sprague’s, and

From my perspective, differences between the two are slight. Sprague’s roll is a little brinier, and its buns a little less substantial, while Red’s seems to use more butter (Kate’s Butter) and hand-tears meat into larger pieces. Both are so enormous that they need to be wrapped to maintain the pretense of structural integrity. On the strength of lobster rolls alone, the two are tied. Either would be a good choice for a hungry adult who wants full autonomy over how their roll is dressed.

an article about Tree Spirits, a winery/distillery in Oakland.

Being a state where agriculture flourishes, Maine has witnessed recent growth in wineries that utilize a wide range of fresh produce to make wines and other spirits.

[Owner Bruce] Olson said he and his wife go through meticulous processes to produce the 15 items on their menu, including wines, brandies and absinthe, an anise-flavored spirit derived from several plants.

Review of SoPo Seafood

| Posted in Reviews

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a review of SoPo Seafood.

When you visit, order at least one salad to enjoy head chef Ryan Smith’s range of brined, braised and pickled vegetables. If the tender, barely set crab cake is available as a protein add-on, don’t hesitate. Don’t skip the oyster of the day, either, especially if it’s the Hackleback-caviar-topped Marshall. While you’re at it, order several. If raw seafood isn’t your style, aim for super-chunky surf clam chowder, fantastic smoked trout toast, or the flakey grilled fish served in a sandwich ($16) or on a rice bowl.

Review of Gather

| Posted in Reviews

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a review of Gather.

Despite a small menu, food at Gather lags behind the beverage program and is, unfortunately, sometimes subpar. Stick to dishes like panko-crusted cod with smashed fingerling potatoes and olive relish, or the Boursin-and-smoked-gouda-topped smash burger, both of which are solid choices. Skip dessert and instead buy a drink for Cole, whose hustle and dedication are unparalleled.

Review of Mitr

| Posted in Reviews

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a review of Mitr.

Lucky for Libbytown, this COVID-delayed, skewers-and-charcoal-grill-centric casual dining spot made it to its debut. Food is solid at Mitr, especially skewers like marinated chicken livers or lemongrass beef, crisp Han Yat-style fried chicken, and deceptively light, balanced desserts like cream-topped coconut cake. Combine that with the miniature dining room’s Instagram-worthy 19 coveted seats, and it’s easy to imagine Mitr becoming an attraction on an otherwise unlovely stretch of Congress Street.

Review of Bistro Leluco

| Posted in Reviews, People

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes a review of Bistro Leluco, and

Cocktails are very good, but the star here is chef Will Durst’s menu that seamlessly brings together New England ingredients and European cooking. Unmissable dishes like puffy, ultra-cheesy Parisienne gnocchi and superb steak à poivre with house-smoked fingerling potatoes match up well with the restaurant’s eclectic, affordable wine list. Not sure what to order? Ask a server. They’re friendly and really know their stuff.

an interview with John Naylor and Mark Law about Rosemont Market.

We sat down in late June with Law and Rosemont co-founder John Naylor – who led the company for 18 years before stepping aside for Law, though he remains involved as president and chairman of the board – to talk about Rosemont’s role in the local community, where the company is headed, and what five items are their must-haves in a Rosemont shopping basket.