The 2022 Year In Review

Here’s a look at the highlights, themes and key moments from the 2022 year in food:

Concept Shift – with the pre-pandemic closure of Five Fifty-Five and the 2022 shuttering of Back Bay Grill and Hugo’s, Portland’s fine dining ranks have thinned quite a bit. Twelve is the new standard bearer for white table cloth dining in Portland. In the meantime, daytime cafes and combination restaurant/markets are increasing in number. Smalls and Friends & Family are a prime examples, and coming online in 2023 are the Bread and Friends bakery/cafe, The Ugly Duckling in the West End, the Night Moves/Lambs collaboration, and the new LB Kitchen.

National Recognition – while none of the nominees came home with the gold in June, the 2022 James Beard Awards season saw Maine honored with 10 semifinalists (just shy of the record 11 set in 2020) and a record 5 finalist nominees—a confirmation of the strength of the Maine restaurant industry and hopefully an indication of what’s to come (watch for the 2023 semifinalists list in February). National recognition came in other forms as well this year: Bon Appetit included Regards on their list of the Best New Restaurants in America, the NY Times identified Leeward and Twelve as two of the “50 places in America we’re most excited about right now,” Food & Wine and CN Traveler shared their love of Biddeford, and Esquire magazine has named Twelve to their 2022 list of the Best New Restaurants in America.

Maine Food Map –Biddeford will continue to be a hot spot, and new restaurants are opening in South Portland and the Portland suburbs. However, there’s also been a growing drumbeat of new and interesting food and beverages businesses opening outside the Portland area, and in 2022 that seemed to have gone into a higher gear…here are just a few examples from the past year: Table Bar in Gardiner, Aboslem Cider in Winthrop,  Nomad in Brunswick, Solo Pane in Bath, the new Dennett’s Wharf in Castine, The Alna Store in Alna, Sidereal Brewing in Vassalboro, Wolfpeach in Camden, Sophia in Belfast, Perch in Waldoboro, Hey Sailor in Searsport, and The Rooting Pig in Bristol.

Upcoming in 2023 – For a rundown of new food businesses under development see PFM Under Construction list. Here are some of the more exciting ones in the pipeline:

  • Bread and Friends – an elevated bakery/cafe located on Fore Street.
  • Lambs/Night Moves – Kerry Haines is bringing her bakery to South Portland and her partner Wade Ritchey is opening a bar in the adjoining space.
  • LB Kitchen – Lee Farrington and Bryna Gootkind are reopening LB Kitchen in an expanded space on the corner of Congress and Smith Streets.
  • Lenora – a taco bar focusing on Mexican-inspired street food from the creators of Lone Star in Boston.
  • Mr. Tuna – a new iteration of Mr. Tuna located on Middle Street is slated to open this summer.
  • Papi – a Puerto Rican-inspired bar and restaurant expected to open early in 2023.
  • Quanto Basta – a brick and mortar version of the popular Neapolitan pizza food truck which will be located in the original LB Kitchen space.
  • Room for Improvement – a modern dive bar being brought to life on Wharf Street by Arvid Brown and  Nick Coffin.
  • The Continental – European pub food meets cocktails and featuring slow pour nitro ales and stouts in the Oakdale neighborhood.
  • The Ugly Duckling – Chaval owners Ilma Lopez and Damian Sansonetti are launching this daytime cafe and bakeshop on Danforth Street in early 2023.
  • Vertical Harvest – a 70,000 square-foot hydroponic vertical greenhouse in Westbrook.

There are also several other exciting new projects that are currently under wraps but will go public soon. Check back later this year for details.

Top 10 Articles

The most popular articles published on Portland Food Map in the past year.

  1. Eastern Prom Food Trucks – early report by the Portland Phoenix that the city was considering new rules to manage food trucks on the Eastern Prom (March 30th)
  2. Somebody Feed Phil – debut of the Somebody Feed Phil episode from Maine (April 7th)
  3. Sacred Profane Brewing – first report on Sacred Profane Brewing being under construction in Biddeford (February 21st)
  4. AC Moving to SoPo – first report on A&C Grocery moving to South Portland (March 2nd)
  5. The Danforth – interim report on The Danforth (February 15th)
  6. The Continental – first report on The Continental (April 14th)
  7. Indy’s Sandwich – first report on Indy’s (February 6th)
  8. Paper Tiger – first report on Paper Tiger (January 6th)
  9. Fish & Whistle – first report on Fish & Whistle in Biddeford (February 1st)
  10. Tobi Open – report on the opening of Tobi (June 3rd)

Notable Events of 2022

Passings

For an additional perspective on the past year in food see the Maine Sunday Telegram Best of 2022 article.

This is the 13th year running that Portland Food Map has published a year in review article. Take a walk down memory lane by checking out these past editions that covered 2021, 2020, 2019, 2018, 2017, 2016, 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, and 2010.

Dedalus Wine in Portland

Dedalus Wine (website, facebook, instagram) from Burlington, Vermont has leased a 3,040 sq ft space at 127 Marginal Way where they are expected to open a Portland outpost of their business. They filed as an LLC in Maine in September 2021.

Dedalus was founded by Jason Zuliani in Burlington in 2007 and has since added shops in Stowe and Middlebury. Dedalus acquired Cured in Boulder, Colorado and it became the base for them to expand into Colorado. Dedalus has also reportedly bought a property in Brooklyn in August.

Allspeed Cycle and Snow will be moving into a new building on Brighton Ave that they purchased earlier this year.

Old Port Tavern Closing

The Press Herald reports that the Old Port Tavern is closing. New Year’s Eve will be their last day in business.

The Old Port Tavern on Moulton Street will close its doors on Saturday night, New Year’s Eve, ending a 50-year stay in the heart of a waterfront district known for its lively nightlife and plethora of dining options.

Housed in the basement of the historic Mariners Church Building, the Old Port Tavern opened as a restaurant and bar in 1973. Richard Herrera, 71, and his business partner, Charlie McGee, 75, have operated the tavern for five decades, but have decided to retire after the business serves its last round of drinks Saturday night.

Tar Coffee in Monument Square

A new coffee shop called Tar Coffee (website, facebook, instagram) opened this morning in the Public Market House in Monument Square.

They’re serving a full spectrum of brewed and espresso-based beverages, along with a menu (see below) of sandwiches, house-made cinnamon rolls, beignets, and New York-style bagels. The beans for Tar are initially being sourced from Carpe Diem from North Berwick but Tar plans to eventually set up an in-house roastery.

The owners previously operated a coffee shop called Dermody Road in Gorham, New Hampshire.

Mr. Tuna Moving to Middle St


Co-owners Jordan Rubin and Marisa Lewiecki have leased space in the new building under construction at 83 Middle Street where they plan to relocate Mr. Tuna (website, facebook, instagram) from Monument Square.

The new restaurant will serve an updated Mr. Tuna menu with the addition of a full bar program of cocktails, sake, beer, wine. Rubin shared that the new restaurant will bring to life the full vision he had for Mr. Tuna when he first launched the business as a food cart in 2017. The space will have 25 indoor seats (see draft floor plan below) with additional sidewalk seating in season.

Lewiecki and Rubin hope to open the new Mr. Tuna this summer. The current Mr. Tuna location in the Public Market House will continue to serve as a commissary kitchen for the Mr. Tuna food trucks and catering operation, and may also be a pick-up spot for Mr. Tuna takeout.

Rubin launched Mr. Tuna as a food cart in 2017. The Mr. Tuna sushi counter opened in the Public Market House in 2018. Rubin, Lewiecki Sasha Brouillard, and chef Cyle Reynolds launched Crispy Gai in the summer of 2021. Rubin and Lewiecki launched Bar Futo on Fore Street earlier this month.

The Alna Store

alna 3_color.jpg The Alna Store (website, facebook, instagram) held the grand opening for their Midcoast Maine market and 36-seat restaurant this past Thursday with the official launch of their dinner service.

The opening night menu (see below) includes a not-to-be-missed dish of charred chioggia beets, a choice of lamb with yellow-eyed beans, a vegetable tangine or burger and fries for a main course and an amaro chocolate torte accented with sumac and pink peppercorns for dessert. There’s a small set of wines by the glass, beers, cocktails and non-alcoholic drinks to go with dinner (see drinks menu below).

The market side of the business sells wines, beers and locally sourced produce and foods. Portland goods for sale include Tandem coffee, Dear Dairy ice cream, and wines from Devenish.

Owners Jasper Ludwig and Brian Haskins took over the store from the prior owners earlier this year and have completely renovated the space. Ludwig hails from Newcastle and the couple moved to the Midcoast in 2020 from their home in Tucson, Arizona where they founded and operate the Five Points Market and Restaurant. Devin Dearden (instagram) has joined Haskins and Ludwig as the chef for The Alna Store. He comes to The Alna Store from Evo and has also worked in Portland at Scales and Hearth in NYC.

The Alna Store is located at 2 Dock Rd in Alna, Maine (just north of Wiscasset). Dinner is served Thursday through Saturday 4 – 8 pm and brunch is available Thursday through Monday, 8 am – 2 pm. Follow their instagram account for updates on hours and the evolving menu.

 

Upcoming Events: OxbEaux, Liu Bian Tan, Caviar, NYE List

MondayOxbow and Eaux are collaborating on an Oxbeaux Brunch taking place at Cafe Louis in South Portland.

TuesdayLiu Bian Tan will be holding a Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup pop-up at Cong Tu Bot.

Wednesday – Browne Trading is holding a champagne and caviar tasting.

New Year’s Eve – here is the start of our NYE list. We’ll be adding entries as businesses announce their plans. Drop us a line if you know of a New Year’s Eve offering not yet on the list.

  • Bao Bao – 6-course for $68 per person.
  • Batson River (Biddeford) – is holding a cocktail party and a offering a dinner and cocktail party combo.
  • Batson River (Portland) – is holding a New Year’s Eve party; $75 per person.
  • Blue Spoon – is serving their full menu with a set of NYE specials.
  • Broken Arrow – 5-course dinner with pairings for $150 per person.
  • Central Provisions – 5-course dinner for two for $300.
  • Crispy Gai – will be serving chicken nuggets, caviar, and champagne in addition to their regular menu.
  • Elda – tasting menu for $160 per person.
  • Evo – 6-course tasting menu with optional pairings for $150 per person.
  • Full Turn – open for dinner and will have options for “large format take-out.”
  • Helm – 4-course dinner for $80 with optional wine pairings for $45.
  • Isa – 4-course dinner with optional wine pairings; $95 per person.
  • Jessica Labonte – has a variety of baked goods available for preorder.
  • Judy Gibson – 6-course dinner; $100 per person with optional $45 beverage pairing.
  • Knotted Apron – 6-course tasting menu with champagne toast for $120 per person.
  • Luna – Complimentary glass of Veuve Clicquot with raw bar, caviar, cheese/charcuterie, hors d’oeuvres, midnight toast; $150 per person.
  • Maine Oyster Co. – 4-course prix fixe; $90 per person.
  • Mr. Tuna –  has a selection of sushi party platters.
  • Regards – $95 per person.
  • The Danforth – is holding a dance party; $50 per person.
  • Twelve – 5-course dinner featuring truffles, caviar, foie gras and a glass of champagne; $175 per person.
  • Wine Wise – a virtual wine dinner for two for $275.

January 7Dobra Tea is holding a tea tasting.

January 28Sam Hayward is teaching a virtual cooking class to benefit the Oasis Free Clinic in Brunswick.

February 11Ali Waks Adams is teaching a virtual cooking class to benefit the Oasis Free Clinic in Brunswick.

February 14Broken Arrow will be serving a Valentine’s Day dinner.

March 18Chris Toy is teaching a virtual cooking class to benefit the Oasis Free Clinic in Brunswick.

Filipino Community & Christmas Foods

Today’s Maine Sunday Telegram includes an article about Maine’s growing Filipino community and the foods that are part of their Christmas celebration.

There are also traditional star-shaped parol lanterns; nine days of masses; the twinkle and hubbub of elaborate Christmas displays; the church bells; the visiting and gatherings; the caroling and dancing; the presents, for children only; and a countdown to Christmas that begins on Sept. 1. The extended Christmas season is a point of pride and joy. Also chief among Filipino culture and traditions at Christmas – and really any time of year – is the food.

Food-Fueled Biddeford

Eater Boston has published an eating tour of Biddeford entitled, One Perfect Food-Fueled Day in Biddeford, Maine.

In Biddeford, it’s relatively easy for most people to spend a food-fueled day exploring the area on foot due to the robust selection of restaurants and activities all within a mile of downtown. That means there’s no excuse not to visit the little Maine mill town, which is steadily building its own reputation as a national dining destination. After all, this tiny Vacationland spot is as charming as it is tranquil — making it ideal for a mini escape from the big city.

The article is written by former Portland resident Stasia Brewczynski.