Interview with Karl Deuben

Knack Factory hasposted an interview with Karl Deuben from Small Axe.

Without being precious, your food is perhaps more sophisticated than one might expect to get from a truck. How did you decide to go that route?
It is food that we like to cook in a style we thought was accessible for people who would be coming to a food truck. We wanted to put into our business everything we had learned at Hugo’s and Miyake. Bill had been in New York and I was in Chicago, and we wanted to utilize the techniques and philosophies behind cooking food that we had picked up over time. You have to have pride in what you are doing. This isn’t necessarily the optimal business model, but we are very proud of the food that we execute.

Reviews: Lolita, Blue Rooster

Portland Magazine has reviewed Lolita,

On to “Large” ($24), as we share the evening’s asado–grilled hanger steak on a bed of zesty salsa verde surrounded by very good roasted vegetables which we request in lieu of fingerlings. Lolita is flexible–you can get what you want here.

and Chubby Werewolf has continued his Blue Rooster chef hot dog review series.

I’m usually wary of fruit—in any of its forms—as a condiment, but I found that I really liked the contrast the sweet cherry jam against the hot dog’s more savory ingredients, so much so that I’ll consider trying the Apocalypse Now burger the next time I’m at Nosh. And what a neat visual: that smear of very-dark purple jam almost resembles caviar. (Less aware was I of the foie gras mayo but, on this edible ode-to-excess, I can’t tell you that I missed it for a second.)

This Week’s Events: Oxbow/Del Ducato Dinner, Allagash at Pai Men, Goose Island Migration, Beer Camp Preview

Monday — Piccolo is hosting a 6-course beer dinner featuring Oxbow and Del Ducato Birrifico.

WednesdayBier Cellar is holding a Goose Island Migration Week tasting, Pai Men is having an Allagash tap takeover with special food pairings, food book author Kate McCarty will be speaking at the Maine Historical Society, and the Monument Square Farmers Market is taking place.

ThursdayThe Great Lost Bear is previewing beers from Sierra Nevada Beer Camp.

Saturday — Novare Res will be having a Beer Camp preview, and the Deering Oaks Farmers Market is taking place.

For more information on these and other upcoming food happenings in the area, visit the event calendar.

If you are holding a food event this week that’s not listed above, publicize it by adding it as a comment to this post.

Review of Bresca and the Honey Bee

The Maine Sunday Telegram has reviewed Bresca and the Honey Bee, Krista Kern Desjarlais’ snack shack in New Gloucester.

The review also shares that “[Desjarlais] tells us she has a location lined up in Lewiston-Auburn, but needs to decide if she’s ready to get back into the scene”. Should she decide to go ahead I imagine there a lot of Bresca fans, myself included, who will be making regular treks to Lewiston-Auburn this Fall.

Food & Wine: Zimmern’s 10 Plates in Portland

fandwaug2014For the August issue of Food & Wine magazine Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern has assembled a list of 10 of his favorite dishes from Portland restaurants.

In my childhood, I passed through Portland every year on my way to Camp Moosehead. Since then it has become one of America’s great restaurant cities. My parents retired here years ago, and I’m hard pressed to think of a small town with as large of an impact on the country’s food scene. I am here often, baseball cap on my head, enjoying a great meal.

Featured in the article are the following:

  1. Meat Coma Platter at Salvage BBQ “best sliced brisket in recent memory”
  2. Seared Foie Gras at Central Provisions “the foie gras is superb”
  3. Crab Salad at Vinland “the Scandi-style fits the natural landscape of Maine perfectly”
  4. Steamed Lobster Roll at Eventide“the kitchen is jamming on all cylinders”
  5. Lobster Dumplings at Empire “This place is mobbed, even in winter, when other places aren’t”
  6. Bacon-Wrapped Hot Dog at Blue Rooster “awesome sandwiches”
  7. Cheeseburger with Gochujang at Small Axe “from the playful minds of chefs Karl Deuben and Bill Leavy”
  8. Poutine at Duckfat “the menu is loaded with winners”
  9. Mussels with Almond and Garlic at Fore Street “the mussels…are legendary”
  10. Grilled Swordfish Belly at Miyake “the wait is worth it”

Update: The article is now online.

Under Construction: Ebb & Flow, Golden Lotus

The liquor license application for a pair of new restaurants are scheduled for Monday’s City Council meeting:

  • Ebb & Flow (facebook, twitter) is a Mediterranean seafood restaurant under construction at 100 Commercial Street—former home of Spread, Gaucho’s, Oolong. As reported last month, the restaurant is a collaboration between Nova Seafood owner Angelo Ciocca and chef William D’Auvray. An extensive draft menu for Ebb & Flow was supplied with the application (starts on page 31).
  • Golden Lotus is a new Asian restaurant that will be taking over the spot at 511 Congress Street which currently is the home of Shanghai Tokyo. Chef/owner Joe Tang has 30 years of restaurant experience, mostly in NH. For several years he was part of the staff at Wok Inn before joining the kitchen staff at Empire Chinese Kitchen. A hand-written draft menu (page 69) was supplied with the application.

Review of Becky’s

Living, Eating and Aging has reviewed Becky’s.

…For food, your basic breakfast is as good as any basic breakfast in town, better than many.  The menu contains all the essentials – eggs, bacon, pancakes, fresh fruit, etc. and not one word on the page is in French. I’m sure many respected foodies might now question my foodie bona fides but I’m gonna just throw it out there: it’s 6:30AM and I’m hungry, I’m going to Becky’s.

Review of Scarborough El Rayo

The Golden Dish has published a review of the Scarborough El Rayo.

The salsa was made from fire-roasted tomatoes, giving it a rich burnished taste.  The chips were made  from Tortilleria Pachanga tortillas, the local artisanal provider from Bayside.  Also impressive was the restaurant’s listing on the back of the menu of local purveyors, something that you don’t often see on the typical Mexican menu here.

Marshall Wharf Seaweed Brew

NPR has aired a report on Marshall Wharf’s brewing of Sea Belt, a beer that uses Maine sugar kelp as one of its key ingredients.

At Marshall Wharf Brewing Co. on the Belfast, Maine, waterfront, new beers begin their journey into draft lines and pint glasses inside two large tanks. Marshall Wharf has a reputation for making some unconventional beers — a stout with locally sourced oysters, for example, and a wheat-infused kolsch with jalapeno and habanero peppers. A few years ago, David Carlson, the brewing company’s owner, discovered a beer from Scotland, called Kelpie, made with seaweed.

“If there’s seaweed in Maine and it’s a good product,” he says, “why not try putting it in the beer?”